How To Hook Up A Washer & Dryer

Part One: Preparing for Installation

Step One: Measure the space. 

Before you try to install your washer and dryer, measure the area where you intend to put them to ensure they will fit. Keep in mind that your dryer will need about four inches of additional space in the back for venting.

Step Two: Make sure the floor is stable. 

Installing the machines on carpet, soft tile, or any weakly supported structure is inadvisable, as the machines may be unstable or damage the floor.

Step Three: Read the instructions for your washer and dryer. 

The instructions provided here will apply to most washers and dryers, but you should read the instructions that came with your machines in case they include any special features that might require additional steps.

Part Two: Installing the Dryer

Step Four: Check and clean your dryer vent. 

Unless your house has never been lived in, it is important to make sure your dryer vent is free and clear of all debris, as a blocked vent may be a fire hazard.

• Most home improvement stores can sell you an inexpensive vent brush. Starting from indoors, insert the brush a few inches and spin, then remove the brush and clean off the bristles. Repeat until the bristles come out clean.
• After cleaning the indoor side of the vent, go outside and remove the vent hood to ensure it is clear of all lint and debris.
• It's a good idea to clean your vent every two years. In addition to the safety issues that a blocked vent can cause, drying clothes with a blocked vent can damage your dryer and void your warranty.

Step Five: Move the dryer into place. 

Leave yourself a couple of feet of space behind the dryer so you can stand comfortably while hooking up the vent hose.

• If using metal ducting instead of a flexible hose, you'll need to move the dryer all the way into place and attach the ducting while standing alongside the machine.

Step Six: Attach the vent hose or duct to your machine.

Place one end of the vent hose over the vent hole in the back of the dryer.

• If space permits, it is a good idea to use a metal vent duct, as ribbed plastic and aluminum hoses can catch lint and clog more easily. Joints in the metal duct should be sealed with duct tape, as screws may also catch lint. The end should fit snugly into the machine, so no clamps or tape should be needed.
• The straighter the vent, the better it will function, as lint can gather in areas where the hose bends. This is another good reason to use metal ducting rather than a plastic or flexible aluminum hose.
• If using a plastic vent hose, slip a circular dryer clamp over the hose to hold it securely in place.
• Make sure your clamps are the right size and fit tightly. Many hoses come with clamps that are made to fit.

Step Seven: Attach the hose or duct to the wall vent. 

If using a flexible hose, clamp it into place, as in step 3. A metal duct will not require clamps but should just slide into place.

Step Eight: Plug in the dryer and move it into its final position.

Part Three: Installing the Washer

Step Nine: Run some water through the faucets.

 Place a bucket or tub underneath the hot and cold water outlets you'll be hooking up to and run some water through each. This will clear any debris that might clog your valve screens.

• Afterwards, make sure the faucets are turned completely off.

Step Ten: Move the washing machine into place. 

Make sure you have enough room to navigate either to the side of the washing machine or behind it to hook up the water supplies.

• Most hoses only have a reach of a few inches; you may need to leave yourself room on the side to hook it up.

Step Eleven: Attach each of the water supply hoses to the faucets. 

Make sure the hot water hose is connected to the hot water faucet and the cold water hose is connected to the cold.

• Many hoses are color coded, with red for hot and blue for cold. Others are not marked, so it will be up to you to remember which is which when it comes time to connect to the washer.
• The end of the hose that has a filter screen in the coupling attaches to your faucet. If the filter screen is not yet in the hose, insert one into the coupling before attaching the hose to the wall. The screens should be included with your hoses.
• Turn the coupling clockwise by hand until tight. Then, with a pair of pliers, tighten the coupling by rotating it another quarter to half a turn. Do not over-tighten, as this may cause leaks.

Step Twelve: Attach the water hoses to the hot and cold water inlets on the back of the washing machine.

• The ends of the hoses with plain rubber washers attach to the washing machine. If the couplings do not have washers in them, insert the washers first, otherwise your hose will leak.
• As with the screens, washers should be included with the hoses if not already inserted.
• Tighten the couplings as in step 3.

Step Thirteen: Turn on the water and check for leaks.

 If hoses are leaking, turn off the water and double check that your couplings are tight and correctly threaded.

Step Fourteen: Connect the drain hose to the washing machine. 

The drain hose should screw onto the water outlet similarly to the water hoses. With some washing machine models, you may find it is already connected, so you can skip this step.

Step Fifteen: Run the drain hose to the drain receptacle. 

Depending on your plumbing, you'll need to feed the hose into a drain on the floor, the wall, or into a laundry sink, or there may be a rigid pipe that extends down to a floor drain.

• Your washer should come with accessories such as straps and/or a hook to help you secure the drain pipe. Consult the manual for your machine to learn how to use these parts correctly in conjunction with your plumbing.
• Make sure to leave a space of several inches between the end of the hose and the bottom of the drain or sink, otherwise your machine may siphon drained water back up the drain pipe.